From the village of La Punt in the Engadine Valley, it’s just 8km up to the Albula Pass (2,315masl), but the change in scenery is dramatic. Marmots call from their burrows as numerous alpine flowers emerge, and in no time you are above the tree line. Snow greeted us on the pass and we had biting hail on the 15km downhill to the village of Berguen, where it was so cold, the chickens were lining up for the deep-fat frier!