Three weeks and the promise of early summer — that’s all it took to convince me. Riding up and down the Greek mountains like a yo-yo brought new landscapes, quiet roads, and more than enough training!
Korfu … Igoumenitsa – Ioannina – Kalabaka – Karditsa – Karpenissi – Antirrio … Rio – Diakopto – Kalavryta – Dimitsana – Ancient Messene – Kalamata
893 km cycled
3 weeks May/June 2025
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Take off
I (Kurt) started in Corfu for its convenient flight connections — and because it’s just a short ferry hop to the mainland. From the moment I disembarked in Igoumenitsa, the climbing began. Quiet roads dominated the ride, and for good reason – villages were rare. Once out of city limits, the population density wasn’t a whole lot higher than outback Namibia. It was a lot greener though.
Ioannina
Ioannina, once the administrative centre of the Epirus region, had architecture that reminded me of Ohrid in modern day N. Macedonia; a shared history visible in stone.
Dodona
Not far from town lies Dodona, the oldest oracle site in ancient Greece. Dating back to the 3rd millennium BC, it began as a temple dedicated to the Earth goddess. Her spirit was said to dwell in the roots of a sacred oak, and priests would interpret her will by the rustling leaves and the birds nesting in its branches. Only Delphi held greater prestige — and maybe only because Dodona was much harder to reach. In the 3rd century BC, Dodona saw upgrades, and in the 6th century AD, a basilica was added. Today, it’s a quiet yet fascinating site, full of stones and stories, set in beautiful countryside — well worth the detour.
Vikos george
The next big draw was a viewpoint above the Vikos Gorge. Wikipedia describes it as the world’s “deepest gorge relative to its width” — and who am I to argue with that? I tackled the short morning hike before breakfast, since the previous day’s ride had left me completely knackered. “Spectacular” doesn’t begin to cover it. Come in spring, and wildflowers line the way.
Pindos Mountains
From there, it was up and down again, over Kataras Pass, the highest in Greece at 1,690 masl. The descent included the busiest stretch of road on the trip — but even that felt orderly and civilized.
Meteora
I settled in Kalabaka for two nights to explore the Greek Orthodox Meteora Monasteries, perched dramatically on towering rock pillars and dating back to the 14th century. From afar, they look like natural monoliths, but up close, you see it’s a 300-meter-thick layer of compressed riverbed, sculpted into this surreal landscape by erosion.
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After all that climbing, the flatlands around Karditsa were a welcome break — big fields, big skies, and space enough for combined harvesters. But the relief was short-lived. Soon, I was climbing again — this time toward the ski town of Karpenissi. With temperatures reaching 30 degrees Celsius, it’s hard to imagine snow on these slopes.
Here it is time to say something about safety in Greece. I was told to park my bike next to the hotel on a grassy patch. When I locked it, I saw that the scooter next to my bike had the key still stuck in the ignition. Nice to see that everyone else is so trusting!
The next morning brought a surprise: a stunning gorge descent all the way to a bridge — followed, naturally, by another 1,000-meter climb. I wanted mountains. I got mountains. Time to shut up and push 😉
The reward? Another downhill and a lovely room overlooking Lake Trichonida, plus a dinner that tasted like victory.
To Peloponnese and Vouraikos gorge
A free ferry ride along the Charilaos Trikoupis Bridge carried me to the Peloponnese, where a shorter ride led into yet another gorge. This one, served by the Diakopto–Kalavryta Railway, is famous for its narrow-gauge cogwheel train. The lower section offered a rough tractor path, but beyond that, the trail narrows into a hiking path. I probably could have ridden it — but instead, I chose the dirt road that climbed through olive groves and, higher up, vineyards. It was slow going… but stunning.
Peloponnese Highlands
Kalavryta, another ski town, carries a heavier story: A WWII memorial honours the local men and boys massacred in retaliation for partisan resistance. It’s a sobering place, but beautifully kept and very moving.
Onward, I passed Cave Lakes — a cave system with, well, lakes. It had all the cave-y elements one expects, though to be honest, it didn’t quite blow me away. Still, my bum welcomed the break from the saddle.
Dimitsana
South of there, the hills are dotted with traditional villages that now cater to hikers. Dimitsana, one of the oldest, was big enough in its day to send soldiers to the Trojan War. Today, its big draw is the Lousios Gorge — a scenic hike past two cliffside monasteries and the ruins of ancient Gortys. Best done downhill: Start in Dimitsana and catch a lift back up. Even then, expect plenty of climbing.
Ancient Messene
A full day’s ride brought me to Ancient Messene, and if you enjoy “old stones,” this place is an absolute gem. I rode straight through the Arcadian Gate, then settled into one of the nearby guesthouses, grabbed a beer at the taverna, and saved the exploring for early morning when the air was cool and the site was empty.
Messene was long ruled by the Spartans, but they had a big colony in Sicily that still bears its name, and opposite the Messina strait they controlled Reggio Calabria too. The archaeological site kept me busy for a good hour.
Kalamata
One last and impressively steep downhill brought me down into an agricultural plain, and here I encountered the first time on this whole trip rubbish dumps along the small agricultural roads crisscrossing the fields. As if they were a Sicilian colony nowadays.
Kalamata was the perfect finish: beach, breeze, olives, one last archaeological museum — and finally, a gentle ride out to the airport.
Food
Nourishment along this route was generally of the honest, local, down-to-earth variety. You’ll get souvlakia with chips and salad in every village, and the quantity is more than enough for a hungry cyclist. Also, at the end of the meal I often got a dessert on the house. In bigger places, you could easily opt for a bit of variety. Prices for a main course varied from 8 to 15 €.
Accommodation
Hotels are reasonably cheap. If you rock up at reception without a booking it’s generally 20% less than what you’d have to pay online. There’s also a difference between cash and card. So, going to an ATM is worth your while. Rooms were always clean, spacious and often with a balcony. Breakfast was always included except when the room was booked online, and I never had to hop on the bike hungry. Prices for one (mostly in a double room) ranged from 40 to 80€. They were all worth the money.
Conclusion
This road less travelled offered great landscapes that made me feel like a yo-yo, friendly folks that made me feel welcome, beautiful remains of former powers made me feel insignificant and sweat pouring out while beer was pouring in made me feel alive; and very grateful too. This mountainous area of Greece has all it takes to make a cyclist happy. I give it 5 stars 😉